TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY BILL HARRIGAN
We slipped into the water early Thursday morning to find the wreck of HMS Rhone laid out below us, like a drawing in a history book. Visibility was easily 120 feet. The entire bow section, including the sharp prow, mast and lifeboat davits, could be seen from the surface. Hundreds of sleek Southern Sennet, smaller cousins of the Barracuda, swirled in perfect formation over the hull. They circled as we approached, forming a portal for our passage back to that fateful day in 1867 when the Rhone sank. This was the start of "Rhone Day" on Cuan Law, the luxury live-aboard trimaran of the British Virgin Islands.
Our diving odyssey through the islands had begun four days earlier with a short taxi ride from the Beef Island airport to the dock, where an even shorter dinghy ride delivered us to Cuan Law. Elegant and enormous, there is no mistaking this boat from any angle. Twin masts tower over the blue and white hull, resting quietly at anchor without a hint of rocking. Duncan and Annie Muirhead designed Cuan Law to excel and we quickly came to realize how well they succeeded. Diving, sailing, dining and just plain lounging all come easily aboard Cuan Law.
Dan Betta, Cuan Law's talented captain, showed us around the boat, starting with the spacious salon. This is the social hub, with the cabins arranged in a U-shape around the front and sides. Five couches and several easy chairs provide plenty of places to lounge and read. Ten overhead hatches let the sunlight pour in; the central air-conditioning keeps the air cool and dry. The bar is between two big doors that lead to the aft deck. Complimentary sodas, orange juice, iced tea and lemonade are always available. A full selection of beer and liquor is also on hand, with a choice of a la cart or weekly payment.
The cabins are also fully air-conditioned, with a thermostat in each so you can dial in the exact temperature you want. Outside windows and overhead hatches give you the option of natural ventilation, along with splendid views. The beds either lock together as a queen-sized double or separate into two large singles. Cuan Law's design also provides each cabin with ensuite bathrooms with showers.
With three watermakers and the capacity to store 1 200 gallons, there is ample fresh water available. The showers function with proper pressure and plenty of hot water, thanks to the efforts of Keith Smith, Cuan Law's engineer. Keith also ensures that the engines, generators and compressors perform as intended. The mechanical operation of the boat seems to happen quietly in the background, serving the guests without intruding on their enjoyment.
Whether you want to socialize or enjoy some private time, there is a lot of space on Cuan Law. Sun pads are provided for each guest and you can pick your spot anywhere on the huge expanse of the main deck. The aft cabin functions as a common room, where we often watched movies or looked at videos from the dives.
The back deck serves as both dive deck and dining terrace, an arrangement that has none of the inconveniences you might imagine. The clever design of the tables and chairs allows the system to work and at mealtimes we witnessed a marvelous conversion from dive platform to oceanfront restaurant. In minutes, the aft deck be came an enticing setting with varnished hardwood tables, overhead awning, soft lighting. island breezes zinc] an unsurpassed view of the BVI.
Chef Emma Persson plied us with one gourmet meal after another, until we approached the table wondering how she could top the last offering. Guests eat grandly aboard Cuan Law and rationalizations, such as, "It doesn't count because I'm on vacation." are heard frequently. Emma also prepared snacks, such as baked brie with bramble raspberry sauce and buffalo chicken wings, to keep us going between dives. She is assisted by hostesses Nicki Bramall and Johanna Askfelt, who seemed to be continuously looking after us wherever we happened to be.
DIVING ARRANGEMENTS
The dive deck is organized for ease of movement and minimum handling of equipment. You assemble your BC and regulator on a tank only once, at the beginning of the week. After that, just step up to the waist high aft cabin deck, where the tanks are stored and filled. Divemasters Rich Buttenshaw and Tripp Hock will have your tank in position so you can slip your arms through your BC and go diving. Rich and Tripp are also PADI instructors, so you can take any course from resort to rescue diver. If you don't want to lug your own gear along, Cuan Law stocks high quality Sherwood equipment for rentals, including Source dive computers. Two equipment rinse tanks, a camera rinse tank, individual storage bins and a freshwater hose make the after diving rituals easy.
The routine includes a mix of diving directly off Cuan Law and from dinghies, providing tremendous flexibility. The dinghies are 20 foot Caribe inflatables with rigid deep V-hulls. A great deal of care has been taken to make them very diver friendly. For instance, two carpeted steps have been added in the bow for easy entrance from Cuan Law. A stainless steel ladder with wooden steps folds down from the transom, extending about four feet below the surface, making exits from the water a snap. The dinghies park between the hulls, gently wedging against a large platform with stairs to the main deck. The whole arrangement is almost as convenient as pulling your car into the garage and walking into the house.
BVI DIVING
Summertime water temperature in the British Virgin Islands averages 84'F. It briefly drops five degrees or so in the winter but is generally above 80'F most of the year. Dive skins are the favorite apparel aboard Cuan Law but a shorty wetsuit will probably keep you comfortable any time of the year. Visibility is excellent, usually in the 80 to 120 foot range. The visibility was 100 to 120 feet on several of our dives. The diving is rich and varied but not terribly rigorous. If you haven't dived in a while, you'll be able to warm up gradually without having to face strong currents or depths.
Mooring buoys installed and maintained by the National Parks Trust, in association with the BVI dive operators, minimize anchor damage. Damaging or removing any plant or animal life is not allowed in BVI waters, so you'll find the reefs packed with life.
Three underwater alleys covered with wild splotches of living color in the form of encrusting corals and sponges give Painted Walls its name. The longest alley leads to a swim-through arch with a circular compartment at the end. Divers on our trip found a pair of silvery Tarpon and two Nurse Sharks waiting like sentinels at the swimthrough. Although much of the coral encrusts the rock walls at this site, there are also many free standing hard and soft corals.
Below the dramatic rock slabs of Ginger Island, Alice's Wonderland is a tribute to the reef building ability of Star Corals. This ubiquitous hard coral grows on boulders, plates and knobs, all found at Alice's. The coral's variations in color are all represented, so the reef wears a multicolored coat of green, gray, yellow and brown. Nurse Sharks often rest under the many overhangs.
A unique BVI site called the Drop-Off is only dived from Cuan Law. The dive is made on a ledge in about 70 feet of water, away from the island group - out where the bottom begins to drop off into seriously deep water. The underwater landscape is very different here. A gently sloping reef dominated by very large Barrel Sponges and luxuriant sea rods leads to the drop-off itself, a wall between 70 and 90 feet. The wall is patrolled by silver schools of Horse-eye Jacks and Atlantic Spadefish.
Night dives are made just after sunset but before dinner. That schedule worked out nicely with other activities, so there were lots of takers for our five night dives.
Sandy's Reef we saw Reef Scorpionfish, Caribbean Octopus, Orange Ball Corallimorphs and an Anemone Hermit Crab. At Manchioneel Rock, near Cooper's Island, we saw more unusual critters, including Purplemouth Morays and a Goldspotted Eel.
Since strong currents are not usually present in the British Virgin Islands, drift dives from Cuan Law, such as Round Rock Drift, are more accurately described as one-way swims. The underwater swim spans a gap between two sets of exposed rocks. Large boulders covered with soft corals, encrusting corals and sponges provide the backdrop for schools of Bar Jacks, Brown Chromis and Creole Wrasse.
The four rocky peaks at the Indians form the steep sides of the reef underwater. Rich and Tripp guided a tour around the Indians that included a look into a cave filled with Copper Sweepers and a swim through a long, narrow arch. Guided dives are available any time but it's entirely up to you whether to stay with the divemaster or not.
The Rhone is listed frequently among the world's ten best wreck dives. Built for the Royal Mail Packet Company in 1865, HMS Rhone combined sail with the latest developments in steam power. More than 300 passenger cabins were included within her 310 foot length. Fate, however, laid a hurricane in her path in October 1867. Although the Rhone survived the first half of the storm, she lost her anchor while trying to relocate as the eye of the hurricane passed overhead. She was forced onto the rocks near Salt Island as the wind hit again. She lies there now in two sections, with the bow largely intact.
Cuan Law devotes a day to diving the Rhone, giving everyone the chance for two day dives and a night dive. The first dive in the morning and the night dive are on the deeper bow section, which starts at about 80 feet and rises to about 50. It's a great dive on the first go around but is really spectacular as a night dive. A night swim through the hull, covered nearly wall-to-wall with brilliant Orange Cup Corals, is one of life's unique experiences. The second dive of the day is on the shallower middle and stern sections, culminating with a visit to the massive propeller.
OTHER ACTIVITIES
Diving, eating and sleeping are not the only activities aboard Cuan Law. The sails are unfurled whenever the wind is right. You can either sit back and enjoy Cuan Law's quiet power or lend a hand with one of the massive winches. Poking around the anchorages in one of the stable, indestructible kayaks is great fun. Dan guides a visit to the mangroves that shouldn't be missed. Shore excursions are available almost anytime, with at least one shopping trip. One afternoon is spent at the Baths, snorkeling and hiking among the famous granite boulders, followed by a barbecue and beach party.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Getting to the British Virgin Islands is easy. American Airlines provides direct jet service to San Juan, Puerto Rico, from many U.S. cities and connecting service on American Eagle turboprops directly to Tortola. A passport or an authenticated birth certificate and photo ID are needed for entry. The U.S. dollar is the monetary currency and the electrical current is the U.S. standard of 110 volt/60 cycles. Major credit cards are accepted in most places, including aboard Cuan Law.
For reservations or more information about Cuan Law, call Trimarine at (800) 648-3393. If you have special requests or want to talk directly with Duncan and Annie Muirhead, call (809) 494-2490. You can also reach them by fax at (809) 494-5774 or write to Trimarine at P.O. Box 4065, St. Thomas, VI 00803,